{"id":2032,"date":"2017-06-08T10:35:45","date_gmt":"2017-06-08T13:35:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/becodorosario.com\/?p=2032"},"modified":"2021-04-30T12:11:59","modified_gmt":"2021-04-30T15:11:59","slug":"moda-de-cavalheiros","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/moda-de-cavalheiros\/","title":{"rendered":"Moda de cavalheiros"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align:justify;\">Uma coisa que sempre tive dificuldade de desenhar foi terno e cal\u00e7a masculinas, e, como n\u00e3o se faz hist\u00f3ria de \u00e9poca sem dar uma boa olhada no figurino, fui atr\u00e1s pra ver como era. Consultando algumas bibliografias e muita, muita iconografia, percebi que, nos anos 1920, os trajes masculinos eram ainda tribut\u00e1rios da d\u00e9cada anterior, ou seja, com modelagem mais ajustada ao corpo. Terno, colete e cal\u00e7a eram sempre vistos nas fotos, embora me pergunte como era usar colete no calor do Brasil&#8230; Abaixo, alguns exemplos de refer\u00eancias que recolhi para pegar o \u201cjeito\u201d de caracterizar os personagens na \u00e9poca:<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-2032 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2035\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-10x10.jpg 10w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-432x433.jpg 432w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-396x397.jpg 396w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros-219x220.jpg 219w, https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a-federac3a7c3a3o-10-01-1925-cavalheiros.jpg 613w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 91vw, (max-width: 900px) 600px, (max-width: 1060px) 50vw, (max-width: 1200px) 520px, (max-width: 1400px) 43vw, 600px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2035'>\n\t\t\t\tFotografia ilustrando reportagem do jornal &#8220;A Federa\u00e7\u00e3o, 10-01-1925. Cal\u00e7as curtas, modelagem justa. Hemeroteca Digital da Biblioteca Nacional.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a_mc3a1scara_num-comemorativo-do-centenc3a1rio-da-independc3aancia_confeitaria-colombo_1.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a_mc3a1scara_num-comemorativo-do-centenc3a1rio-da-independc3aancia_confeitaria-colombo_1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2036\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2036'>\n\t\t\t\tColete, terno e cal\u00e7a ajustados na foto de Jo\u00e3o Jos\u00e9 Romba, propriet\u00e1rio da antiga Confeitaria Colombo. &#8220;A M\u00e1scara&#8221; &#8211; Num Comemorativo do Centen\u00e1rio da Independ\u00eancia, 1922. Hemeroteca do Museu de Comunica\u00e7\u00e3o Social Hip\u00f3lito Jos\u00e9 da Costa.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a_mc3a1scara_outubro_1925_anno-viii-num-x_1o-aniversario-otavio-rocha.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/a_mc3a1scara_outubro_1925_anno-viii-num-x_1o-aniversario-otavio-rocha-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2037\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2037'>\n\t\t\t\tDiretamente de Porto Alegre: o prefeito Ot\u00e1vio Rocha e seu bonde. Pode-se notar as cal\u00e7as justas e curtas, bem como os ternos e coletes. As golas eram bem engomadas e altas. &#8220;A M\u00e1scara&#8221;, Outubro\/1925Anno VIII &#8211; Num X. Hemeroteca do Museu de Comunica\u00e7\u00e3o Social Hip\u00f3lito Jos\u00e9 da Costa.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify;\">Depois de muito estudo e papel jogado fora, eis minhas interpreta\u00e7\u00f5es da moda masculina dos anos 1920:<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-2032 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros-pincel-2.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros-pincel-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros-pincel.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros-pincel-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiro-pincel.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sketchbook-a5-cavalheiro-pincel-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/50-esboc3a7os-a-lc3a1pis-sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/50-esboc3a7os-a-lc3a1pis-sketchbook-a5-cavalheiros-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p style=\"text-align:justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align:justify;\">Pode-se datar fotografias de \u00e9poca olhando para as roupas. Nos anos 1930, as cal\u00e7as v\u00e3o se alargar, e depois os ternos, permanecendo com modelagem larga durante os anos 40 e 50.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify;\">P.S.: adoro desenhar roupas de homens dessa \u00e9poca, quase tanto ou mais que de mulheres. \ud83d\ude1b<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><u>\u00a0<\/u><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Uma coisa que sempre tive dificuldade de desenhar foi terno e cal\u00e7a masculinas, e, como n\u00e3o se faz hist\u00f3ria de \u00e9poca sem dar uma boa olhada no figurino, fui atr\u00e1s pra ver como era. Consultando algumas bibliografias e muita, muita iconografia, percebi que, nos anos 1920, os trajes masculinos eram ainda tribut\u00e1rios da d\u00e9cada anterior, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2040,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[348],"tags":[39,57,67,110],"class_list":["post-2032","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sketchbook","tag-figurinos","tag-pesquisa","tag-sketchbook","tag-croquis","entry-image--portrait"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2032","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2032"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2032\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4985,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2032\/revisions\/4985"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2040"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2032"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2032"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.analuizakoehler.com\/becodorosario\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2032"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}